Hoya Temperature Tolerance Guide in Celcius

This is based on Vermont Hoya’s temperature guide which is in Fahrenheit,
if you would like to read that, you can find it here.
For New Zealand hoya fans, I have put an asterisk (*) by the hoya on the New Zealand MPI plant biosecurity index list.

What is the MPI Index list? It’s a list of all the plants that are allowed to be imported into the country as we have extremely strict biosecurity. This is because of the unique plant and animal life we have here in New Zealand. Some people may see it as a pain that we don’t have access to the same plants the rest of the world does but to me, it outlines how precious our country is and why we need to protect it. If you grow sick of your indoor plants, please don’t plant them in your garden without doing research first. Many house plants like monstera deliciousa, tradescantia and spider plants have become invasive weeds and threaten our county’s wildlife. Please be responsible with your plants, what you do matters in your community <3
Another note about the MPI Biosecurity list (which btw you can find here). If a plant isn’t on that list it doesn’t necessarily mean that it isn’t in the country or that it isn’t allowed in the country. For example, Monstera Adansonii isn’t on the list but is in the country and is allowed to be sold in the country as Adansonii. I’m also hopeful in the future that MPI will allow more hoya on their list as hoya are not classed as invasive. 


If you see any hoya that I’ve missed from putting an asterisk next to, please message me through this website or on Instagram, my handle is @littlelifeplants_nz
One more note, there appear to be gaps and mistakes in this list. hoya acuta isn’t on any list for example. If anyone could clear up these oddities for me please give me a message and I’ll clean it all up.


The following list describes the general temperature tolerances that Hoyas will do best in. 
This guide was derived from the information found in the David Liddle Hoya Catalog.
While not to be taken as gospel, it can give some helpful idea of where to start. 
For example, you would not want to take a warm grower like hoya cummingiana and expose it to night-time temps in lower than 2°C.


Cool –  Lowest continual temp. 10°C; Highest continual temp. 25°C

Intermediate – Lowest continual temp 15°C; Highest continual temp.  35°C 

Warm – Lowest continual temp 21°C; Plants will happily live at temperatures over 35°C for extended periods of time.


Cool Temperature Hoya (10°C – 25°C)

  • H. bella *
  • H.calycina *
  • H. carnosa *
  • H. compacta ‘Krinkle 8’ *
  • H. compacta ‘Indian Rope’ *
  • H. engleriana
  • H.  fungii *
  • H. globulosa *
  • H. cv. Iris Marie
  • H. kerrii *
  • H. lacunosa *
  • H. lanceolata *
  • H. latifolia *
  • H. linearis *
  • H. longifolia *
  • H. motoskei *
  • H. obovata *
  • H. pauciflora *
  • H. polyneura *
  • H. pubicalyx *
  • H. serpens *
  • H. shepherdii *


Intermediate Temperature Hoya (15°C – 35°C)

  • H. albiflora *
  • H. aldrichii
  • H. anulata *
  • H. archboldiana *
  • H. arnottiana *
  • H. australis ssp. australis  *
  • H. australis ssp. tenuipes   *
  • H. benquetensis *
  • H. bhutanica *
  • H. bicknellii 
  • H. bilobata *
  • H. blashernaezii
  • H. bordenii  *
  • H. brevialata
  • H. burtoniae *
  • H. cagayenensis 
  • H. callistophylla
  • H. calycina *
  • H. camphorifolia *
  • H. caudata  *
  • H. cembra
  • H. chlorantha
  • H. chuniana
  • H. cinnamomifolia *
  • H. citrina *
  • H. clandestina
  • H. coriacea *
  • H. curtisii
  • H. cystiantha
  • H. davidcummingii
  • H. deykei
  • H. dimorpha *
  • H. diptera   *
  • H. diversifolia *
  • H. dischorensis
  • H. dolicosparte
  • H. eitapensis *
  • H. erythrina *
  • H. erythrostemma  *
  • H. excavata
  • H. finlaysonii *
  • H. fischeriana *
  • H. flavescens *
  • H. flavida *
  • H. graveolens
  • H. greenii
  • H. halophilla
  • H. hellwigiana
  • H. heuschkeliana
  • H. imperialis var rauschii *
  • H. inconspicua *
  • H. incrassata *
  • H. incurvula
  • H. ischnopus *
  • H. juannguoiana
  • H. kanyakumariana
  • H. kentiana
  • H. lamingtoniae
  • H. leucorhoda
  • H. limoniaca *
  • H. litoralis *
  • H. lobbi
  • H. loherii
  • H. macgillivrayi  *
  • H. macrophylla *
  • H. magnifica *
  • H. meliflua   *
  • H. meliflua ssp. fraterna *
  • H. merrillii
  • H. micrantha *
  • H. monetteae
  • H. multiflora *
  • H. nabawanensis
  • H. naumanii *
  • H. nummularoides *
  • H. obscura *
  • H. odettaea
  • H. odorata *
  • H. oreogena
  • H. pachyclada *
  • H. padangensis *
  • H. parasitica
  • H. parviflora *
  • H. paziae
  • H. pentaphlebia *
  • H. picta
  • H. polystachya *
  • H. pottsii *
  • H. purpureo-fusca *
  • H. pusilla
  • H. retusa *
  • H. revoluta
  • H. rigida
  • H. rubida
  • H. samoensis *
  • H. schneei *
  • H. sipitangensis
  • H. subglabra
  • H. thomsoni
  • H. tsangii *
  • H. vitellina   *
  • H. vitellinoides   *
  • H. vitiensis *
  • H. wibergiae
  • H. sp. aff. micrantha
  • H. sp. aff. chuniana currently in circulation as H. chuniana
  • H. sp. Philippines  – thought to be the same as H. siariae


Warm Temperature Hoya (21°C – over 35°C)

  • All of the Eriostemmas   (Something called Hoya erythrostemma on the list. Same thing?)
  • H. anulata  *
  • H. australis ssp. oramicola  *
  • H. australis ssp. sanae  *
  • H. clemensiorum
  • H. collina
  • H. cominsii  *
  • H. cummingiana *
  • H. dennisii
  • H. densifolia
  • H. hypolasia
  • H. lambii
  • H. latifolia *
  • H. marginata
  • H. megalaster  *
  • H. mindorensis ssp. superba 
  • H. mitrata
  • H. montana
  • H. pachyclada  *
  • H. patella
  • H. ruscifolia  *
  • H. siariae
  • H. subcalva   *
  • H. walliniana
  • H. waymaniae


Phew! we made it to the end! That was quite a list. For a reward, I will now show you some photos of my precious hoya.

From left to right; hoya bella, fishtail or polyneura, anthurium crystallinum and hoya serpens


My odd looking hoya kerrii and hoya krimson princess


hoya obovata in the centre framed by bella, serpens under the dome and polyneura in the back



Sending Plants in the Post

I have sent plants to people in other parts of New Zealand successfully and I have done so unsuccessfully.

I thought I’d share my methods with you, both successful and not.
My Successful Plant Mail: (with a potted plant)
I couriered a baby plant (marble queen pothos) down to my friend in Wellington and she couriered two plants back up to me (pictured), we both packed them the same way and it worked great. First I used gladwrap to carefully wrap over the top of the plant and around the plastic pot and soil. This was to help keep the plant and soil in its pot. Then the plants were wrapped in bubble wrap and placed inside a small box to size up the box and to prepare the skewers. The skewers were measured, cut and taped around the pot. They are there so if the box is tipped upside down, the skewers hold the plant in the same position in the box so the pot doesn’t fall down and crush the poor plant. I then used paper to pack around the pot so that the pot was held firmly in place. The box was then taped up and I wrote “FRAGILE” and “THIS WAY UP” with arrows pointing upwards all around the sides. I couriered my plant from Auckland to Wellington with Now Courier and it arrived safe and sound in two days.
When my friend went to send her package with Courier Post they put her carefully labelled package into a courier bag so you could no longer see her messages of “FRAGILE” and “THIS WAY UP”. They still let her write “FRAGILE” on the outside of the bag and she sent it off with crossed fingers. Her packaging worked perfectly and both plants arrived safely. She used Courier Post to send her package from Wellington to Auckland, sent at 10:30am (ish) on a Wednesday morning and I received the package first thing the next day. I was pretty impressed with how fast it got to me!
Important! Try to send plants on a Monday or Tuesday so that they don’t get stuck at a depot over the weekend. Take into account long weekends too, an extended jaunt at the courier depot means death for your poor plant baby. Keep the weather in mind if you’re shipping in the heat or summer or the depths of winter, will the plant catch a chill? Will it boil alive? All these things are really important to consider.

My Failure: (with a cutting)
This was my very first attempt at sending plant mail, I carefully packaged up a monstera adansonii cutting that had been propagating in water and had grown some nice long roots. From memory, I popped the plant in a ziplock bag and put that into a small box which has some foam padding. What I forgot to do was wrap the roots in wet paper towels because the roots got pretty dry on their journey south. The plant arrived and is doing well thanks to its new plant dad but was incredibly dry and subsequently lost a leaf or two due to my negligent packing!
Another note: I reuse every piece of bubble wrap, plastic and every box that come in through my door and would encourage anyone sending/receiving mail to do the same. Where possible I pack boxes with paper instead of bubble wrap but sometimes this just isn’t possible. If anyone has eco alternatives to bubble wrap, gladwrap etc, I’d love to hear your suggestions!

Propagation Heat Pad

Hi Guys! Sorry for the long silence, my life has taken a somewhat different direction from what I had planned. I’ll probably do a post about that when I’ve finished processing it myself, but for now, I thought I’d keep you updated with the plants in my life at the moment.

I get a lot of questions about the heat pad that I use to propagate my cuttings and grow my seedlings on, so I thought I’d share a little bit about it. I bought my heat pad from the grow shop ( which has two stores in New Zealand, one in Henderson, Auckland and one in Christchurch.

This is the one that I bought ($35):

Plug it in, pop your cuttings and seedlings on it and you’re a go. It does say not to get the pad wet, so I have all my pots on container lids or at the very least paper to keep moisture off the pad.

The guy who sold it to me said that it took up less electricity than a light bulb and I think that’s about right. I kept a close eye on our power bill for the first few months having it going full time and I didn’t notice any difference. The heat from the pad is very subtle, if you place your hand on it you can barely tell its on but compared to other surfaces it is warm. It’s kept at the perfect temperature for root growth and I have noticed an increase in root production and the speed roots are established. With this heat pad, I’ve been taking cuttings all winter and seeing good results.
You do need to check in on your plants every couple days if you don’t have anything to stop moisture from escaping the containers because the pad will slowly dry out the soil. Especially on shallow pots.
An example of how fast roots are established (keep in mind that it was winter when I did this) I have a small string of pearls (variegated) that
my husband accidentally knocked over and it died off pretty quickly after that. I pulled out any surviving pearls and put them into a tiny raw clay pot (much like terracotta) and waited for about a month, maybe two for roots to form. Then I purchased the heat pad and took the remaining pearls that had no roots and placed them on the heat pad. I think they shot out roots within a week, it was that fast! I really recommend getting yourself one of these pads if you’re serious about propagating plants. My pad is so crowded with cuttings, I’m seriously thinking about getting a second one!